They will grow practically anywhere if you remember five things: p reparation , depth , water , temperature and the first prune. All clematis prefer to be planted so the crown of the plant - this is where its stem s emerge from the compost in which it was grown - is at least inches 6 cm below soil level.
I plant well-grown clematis with a strong stem deeper still at about 6" and it has always served me well. Planting deep helps promote growth from below soil level which is good because it lessens the chance of your clematis becoming diseased and increases the speed at which they cover whatever you have planted them against or under. Our plants are well enough developed to be planted like this immediately. If you buy very small clematis plants in liners - 9cm pots then, although you place the plant deep in the hole, you do not return the soil around the stem until it has become woody which is usually the winter following planting.
Until a clematis has established and is growing away well, it will need plenty of water. They are thirsty plants and if you followed the instructions above their roots were planted deep, so plenty really does mean that. Having said which, they also demand good drainage. This is one of the reasons they do so well on chalky and sandstone soils - the soil retains moisture, but never puddles. If you do not have good drainage, then "Preparation" includes improving it to the point where you do have good drainage.
If you are on heavy clay, plant clematis on a slope and dig a relief trench away from the planting hole, down the slope to help water movement. If none of that is possible, make a good sized mound - say 20 cms 12" tall and twice as wide and plant in that. Most clematis love the sun, but only on their tops.
There are a few that fade in direct sunlight but in the main a very light, airy place is good. For the top half, that is. When to Plant Clematis Plant potted clematis in spring or early fall. Avoid planting in the height of summer, as the harsh sun and heat can make it difficult for the plant to get established. Most clematis varieties need a site with at least six hours of full sun. Clematis grows best in loose, well-draining soil. Work plenty of compost into the soil prior to planting.
Set the plant in the hole with the crown 2 to 3 inches below the soil surface. Cover the soil around the plant with mulch to keep the roots cool. Clematis vines need a trellis or other support on which to grow. Keep the soil moist during the first year by watering weekly during the growing season. Fertilize after planting with a liquid seaweed or fish emulsion. In subsequent years, fertilize in spring with a granular organic fertilizer.
In spring, add compost around the plant. On older plants, remove any stems in spring that are 4 years old or older. Pruning Clematis Like hydrangeas, different clematis varieties are pruned at different times.
It dies to the ground each winter but puts on an amazing growth spurt each spring climbing up to 10 feet high. It needs a pole or a tall shrub or tree for support. In spring it puts out new growth and by summer it reaches about 4 feet in height and width.
By August it is covered with small, gorgeous, blue flowers that resemble hyacinth blossoms. It also produces showy silky seed heads. Display it against an evergreen backdrop. Without this they tend to make a congested nest. Spread the stems out on their support or frame, tying them in with gentle flexi-tie or sweet pea twizzles as you go. Deadheading some clematis will encourage further flowering, but some offer just a single-flush of flower. Clematis can be propagated by cuttings, layering and seed sowing.
Clematis are divided into three groups or categories for pruning purposes: winter and spring-flowering, early-summer-flowering, and late-summer and autumn-flowering. A lot of people worry about pruning their clematis, but it is very simple if you follow these guidelines. Pruning Group 1 Clematis early spring, e. Alpina, Montana, Armandii The clematis in group 1 are mostly the early spring varieties that flower on the previous year's growth. Little or no pruning is needed, unless they have outgrown their allocated space, in which case they should be pruned immediately after flowering.
Every few years they may need a tidy when they finish flowering. Trim back to a permanent framework of branches. Always hold your pruners vertically to avoid cutting into a central vine. Pruning Group 2 Clematis late spring, e. Nelly Moser The clematis in group 2 produce their flowers in May and early June on stems grown the previous year. These need to be pruned lightly in February.
To do this, follow your way down from the top of each stem until you reach a healthy bud and then cut on a slant just above it and remove old, dead stems above it. Do not prune too vigorously or you will lose the flowers. Prune again after flowering if required to tidy up the shape, if not leave for a second flush of flowers. Pruning Group 3 Clematis late summer, e. These need hard pruning in February.
Cut all stems just above a healthy new bud approximately 30cm 1ft from the ground. Remove all dead growth above this. It sounds drastic, but they will grow and flower in one season.
If you are unsure or forget which group your Clematis fall into, the simple way to remember is that if they flower before June, prune lightly as they will flower on the previous year's growth. Powdery mildew can affect clematis.
You can remove any affected leaves and try an organic solution such as homemade comfrey tonic to keep mildew at bay. Clematis wilt is a fungal disease that tends to affect large-flowered clematis rather than the small-flowered types.
Symptoms include wilting of leaves starting from the top of the plant and black stalks. If you think the plant has clematis wilt, cut off affected parts and dispose of them but not in the compost heap. Cut back to 30cm 1ft above the ground if necessary. As the clematis has been planted deeply it should throw up new shoots from below ground level. You might also notice yellowing leaves and a general lack of vigour.
It tends to show up more prominently on pale-flowered clematis and could be brought on by cold weather. If you have a repeat-flowering clematis, the second flush is unlikely to be affected.
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